NOMA chef steps down after New York Times report of abuse

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PRESS REVIEW – Friday, March 13: We examine how the press is responding to Lebanon emerging as a new front in the US and Israel’s war against Iran. One paper describes the conflict in Lebanon as an extension of Israel’s war against Hezbollah. Also in the headlines: the chef and co-founder of fine-dining restaurant NOMA steps down following a New York Times report detailing allegations of physical and verbal abuse of staff. And the shortlisted nominees for the London Camera Exchange Photography Awards have been announced.

We start with the war in Iran, which shows no end in sight. French daily Libération features Donald Trump, Vice-President JD Vance and Pentagon chief Pete Hegseth on its front page under the headline, “Their crusade.” The paper says the trio must now face the consequences of a war that goes against their electoral promises and has sent oil prices soaring.

British papers, including The Guardian, highlight UK Defence Secretary John Healey’s comments that Vladimir Putin is the “hidden hand” behind Iran’s military methods. He noted that Iran’s use of Shahed drones mirrors the drones Russia has used in Ukraine. The paper’s front-page photo shows a Beirut suburb in smoke after an airstrike as Israel escalates its conflict with Hezbollah in Lebanon.

In Lebanese media, French-language daily L’Orient le Jour also reports strikes hitting the heart of Beirut. In a sarcastic opinion piece, one writer accuses Lebanon’s leaders of a “fiesta of inaction,” saying the war provides them a pretext to do nothing. Le Monde argues that the new war in Lebanon is the price of the international community’s silence. It links the conflict directly to Iran’s war with the US and Israel, as well as to Israel’s ongoing conflict with Hezbollah, noting that the “lopsided ceasefire” of 2024 was ignored.

Turning to fine dining, the Guardian reports that René Redzepi, co-founder of the three-Michelin-starred restaurant NOMA, has stepped down amid allegations of abuse. Redzepi helped build NOMA into one of the world’s best restaurants, winning five World’s Best Restaurant awards. But a recent New York Times report includes accusations from 35 former employees that he subjected staff to physical and emotional abuse between 2009 and 2017, including punching, jabbing with kitchen tools, slamming against walls, body-shaming and threats against families and partners. Sponsors have pulled back from a planned NOMA LA pop-up.

Conservative British site Unherd notes the irony: NOMA was meant to champion ethical, enlightened cooking and reject the old hierarchical, abusive kitchen model – yet the allegations suggest its founder did the very opposite.

Finally, the London Camera Exchange has announced the shortlist for its photography awards. One striking image shows a vulture in Bulgaria asserting dominance over a jackal in midair, capturing the dramatic contrast of power and meekness. The winners will be revealed soon.

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